The Hollander collection of Chinese Minorities textiles

April 19, 2017

The Hollander Collection

19 images

With over 1500 objects of costume, jewellery and decoration, the Hollander Collection is one of the world's most complete and comprehensive groups of objects which together depict the cultural lives and ethnographic heritage of the hill tribes of China.

Tunic, China Yi, early 20th-Mid 20th century, Cotton, satin, brocade, ribbon, silk threads, silk tassels, beads bells. 9′ 5″ x 6′ 9″ (287 x 205.7cm) Very large, open, tunic-like garment of indigo dyed cotton, full length and gathered at center lower back, embroidered in large sections front center, front sides and upper back with snake-like forms. Overall pattern of appliqued squares. Roger Hollander Collection, Primary collection

Blanket, China Miao, Early 20th-Mid 20th Century. 3′ 11″ x 6′ 4 1/2″ (119.4 x 194.3cm); Handspun and machine-woven cotton; embroidery, patchwork. Blanket made in applique technique utilizing various cotton handspun and machine-woven cotton and silk embroidered cotton fabrics on a handspun cotton fabric, pattern elements outlined with couching stitch over cotton yarns. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Skirt, China Li Run, Early 20th-Mid 20th Century. 1′ 3″ x 1′ 1/2″ (38.1 x 31.8cm); Cotton; supplementary warp float, supplementary weft float. Short tube skirt constructed of three strips of supplementary weft float and one strip of supplementary warp float techniques. Run dialect. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Skirt, China Yi, Early 20th-Mid 20th Century. Closed hem width by waistband to hem: 5′ x 3′ 3″ (152.4 x 99.1cm); Cotton, silk, foil; appliqué, embroidery, couching. A full, gathered closed skirt with a wide waistband, decorated in horizontal stripes of batik, combined applique and embroidery, silk ribbon, and couched foil. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Hanging, China Li, Early 20th-Mid 20th Century. 7′ 1″ x 4′ 1″ (215.9 x 124.5cm); Cotton, silk thread; embroidery. Wall hanging composed of three large cotton panels with striped patterns on ends. Embroidered in the center section with dragon, fish, phoenix, and dog patterns, with a Chinese key small border and wider outer border of floral and vase designs. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Tunic, China Yi, early 20th-Mid 20th century, Cotton, satin, brocade, ribbon, silk threads, silk tassels, beads bells. 9′ 5″ x 6′ 9″ (287 x 205.7cm) Very large, open, tunic-like garment of indigo dyed cotton, full length and gathered at center lower back, embroidered in large sections front center, front sides and upper back with snake-like forms. Overall pattern of appliqued squares. Roger Hollander Collection, Primary collection

Jacket, China Yi, early 20th-mid 20th century. Cotton, silver; silk and cotton embroidery; Cuff to cuff and collar to hem: 3′ 10 1/2″ x 1′ 3″ (118.1 x 38.1cm). Short jacket with side loop closure, composed of varied panels of plain tabby woven cotton, silk and cotton embroidery on cotton. Breast and back ornamented with sewn-on plaques of repousse silver in conical form. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Robe, China Yao, Early 20th-Mid 20th Century. 3′ 2 1/2″ x 3′ 8″ (97.8 x 111.8cm); Cotton cloth, silk thread. Shaman’s robe; open full length tunic robe of coarse cotton tabby cloth with panels forming two front sections and solid back; sides and ends left unfinished, raw edges. Embroidered in silk. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Baby Carrier, China Zhuang, 20th Century. 3′ x 2′ 6 3/4″ (91.4 x 78.1cm); Cotton, silk; quilting and appliqué, embroidery in silk on ceter panel. Baby carrier with a field of multi-colored tabby woven cotton fabrics, cut into triangles and quilted. Center panel formed of appliquéd satin elements in scalloped pattern, and then embroidered in silk. Cloth ties are cut off. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Baby Carrier, China Geija, 20th century. 2′ 1 3/4″ x 2′ 11″ (65.4 x 88.9cm); cotton cloth, silk thread; embroidery, wax resist. Baby carrier with central panel worked in embroidered wax resist (batik) and supplementary warp float border. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Blanket, China Zhuang, Early 20th Century. 4′ 2″ x 5′ 3″ (127 x 160cm); Cotton tabby fabric, bast fiber, brass buttons; embroidery. Blanket with a large center panel with weft inlay or embroidery on bast fiber ground, three borders of cotton tabby cloth, loop and button closure between inner and outer borders on all sides.Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Baby Carrier, China Geija, mid 20th century. 2′ 4 1/2″ x 2′ 6 1/2″ (72.4 x 77.5cm); other (with ties): 196cm (6′ 5 1/8″); Cotton cloth, silk thread; embroidery, applique, wax resist. A complete baby carrier with embroidered wax resist (batik) central panel with applique and an embroidered border. Long cloth ties with purple and white supplementary warp float and wax resist (batik) sections. Roger Hollander collection – Primary collection

Robe China Miao, early 20th-Mid 20th Century. 4′ 7″ x 4′ 1″ (139.7 x 124.5cm); Cotton, pulped silk, silk and cotton thread. seed beads, feathers. Hundred Bird Jacket. Elaborate front opening, full sleeved, collared, calf-length robe with multiple hanging lapets decorated with embroidery, beads and feathers at bottom. Ground surface of pulped silk, embroidery thread from carded and spun silk thread. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Jacket, China Geija, Early 20th Century. Cuff to cuff and collar to hem: 3′ 11″ x 2′ 8″ (119.4 x 81.3cm); Cotton, silk thread; wax resist (batik), embroidery. Long narrow woman’s jacket with single front closure at collar, slits at sides and middle back, and wide, elbow-length sleeves. Front and back panels made from wax resist (batik) cotton tabby cloth, sleeves sewn from strips of wax resist dye. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Blanket, China Maonan, Late 19th Century. 3′ 10 3/4″ x 4′ 6″ (118.7 x 137.2cm); Cotton, silk; continuous and discontinuous supplementary weft inlay. Blanket made of three strips of cotton warp/cotton weft fabric with continuous and discontinuous supplementary weft inlay in silk and two border strips of tabby woven cotton cloth. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Vest, China Geija, 20th Century. 11 3/4″ x 3′ 8″ (29.8 x 111.8cm); cotton tabby cloth, silk thread; embroidery, couching. Woman’s bib-like over vest of cotton cloth with neck hole, open sides; worked in satin stitch and chain stitch embroidery. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

Banner, China Yao, Late 19th-Early 20th Century. 1′ 7″ x 4′ 3″ (48.3 x 129.5cm); Tempera painting on handmade paper. Scroll form banner on handmade paper with sticks of bamboo securing ends. Tempera painting of a haloed central figure holding a scroll, and wearing an elaborate robe, birds and a canopy decorating the top section. Roger Hollander Collection – Primary collection

A third themed textile exhibition has just begun on Thomas Murray’s website, however this selling exhibition is much larger than anything seen previously. The Roger Hollander Collection of Chinese Minority costume, textiles and jewellery shows 1,500 pieces which are divided into Primary and Secondary Collections. Each object has a high quality image on the site and the primary collection of 580 pieces have full cataloguing. The collections are available separately or together and represent a museum level collection of the textile arts of the Chinese minorities groups. The late collector’s motives for assembling such a larger group of objects relating to these cultures is well summarised in the introduction of the exhibition: “Roger felt something would surely be lost were he to collect exclusively on an aesthetic basis. He felt a responsibility to document the “minor arts,” from shoes to headgear, old, and relatively recent because he recognized early on that the tidal wave of modern Han Chinese culture was going to be irresistible. He saw the inevitability of young minorities migrating to the big cities to find jobs, exchanging traditional costumes for steady work as secretaries in offices or for men to go into the manufacturing sector.”

To view the collection visit www.tmurrayarts.com